Monday, November 2, 2009

The Modern Mission



In a random European Airport, under the harsh lights, at some ungodly hour, somewhere between the comfort of home and the great unknown, a group are huddled together for reassurance, uniform in cotton t-shirts, with big eyes and sturdy backpacks from Bass Pro Shops. Eager beavers, goats before the slaughter. Their thick backs bear the inscription ‘Malawi 2009’. Their armour is weak for the journey they have yet to begin.

Characteristically pudgy and pale, stodgy raw sausage ankles push out from under sensible cotton trousers and long modest skirts, stuffed into Dr. Scholls and Tevas for comfort. Their packs, like them, are stuffed, taut. Unscented sunblock, mosquito spray and bed nets; and ‘little gifts for the children’- and Dairy Milk fruit and nut bars for themselves. For strength.

They are jovial, yet a tangible nervous energy hangs over them like animals devoid of instinct, when the forest around them knows there is danger ahead. They have no idea. They decide to sing.

They hover, docile and domesticated around their guide. He is confident and all-knowing. He has actually BEEN TO AFRICA before, and he will lead this unprepared motley crew into the wild. His cheeks are a deeper red than the others, his enthusiasm rehearsed. He knows what lies ahead, but has pledged himself to a make believe cause…

The bland mass are willing but not able, well-meaning but insincere, sheltered and softened by processed foods and years of inactivity. They have emerged from the warm dark cave where they’ve been nurtured on clean running water and Starbucks, electricity and mod-cons, the frivolity of Hallmark love and television emotions.

There is not a muscle in sight. The sinews of these creatures have never strained. Never pulsed against the enemy that awaits.

Poverty the rat will mock them and eat it’s children with wanton fangs, and these soft bellied creatures will weep and mourn and look up to the Hosanna they’ve had inscribed on their XL tees. Cheek flesh will tremble, hot tears will well up and spill uselessly on the dry crusted surface of the African slum.



And the naïve smiles painted on their blank faces will be replaced. Temporarily smudged.

They will return a few weeks or months later, believing they’ve been changed forever. Licking their wounds they will retreat. They will cling limply to the belief that something has changed. That their mission has had a higher purpose…

They will remember the bright saucer eyes in the tiny brown faces atop spindly limbs, and believe there was connection, love, hope… while countless faceless rats scurry underfoot.

When our group are back in their warm caves, baking Pilsbury chocolate chip cookies, the trip to the wild will slip into a pocket of memory, a conversation for tea. A flash reflection before excess and indulgence overcome them once again. Swallowed by mountains and mountains of things.
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152 comments:

TheChicGeek said...

Wow, Hollie, you write such a powerful piece. Isn't it better, though, that they go, they see and maybe they do help. I suspect some are forever changed. We all want to help but to get in there and actually do something and stick with it takes a very special person. I suspect you are one of those people.

Awareness and shining the light of truth to the realities of life in areas like this has got to be a positive...I hope it's a start.

You've once again, given me much to think about. You are a lovely writer and very special person. It is good to know you :)
Hugs to You!
Kelly

Sweetleaf said...

Sometimes those who have visited places are more dangerous than those who never came.
Those who never came can honestly say, "I don't know".
To speak with authority about concepts that are missed or ill-interpreted spread back, through first hand stories, to the ignorant as authority and become theirs.
Those of us who stay, can say, with conviction "I don't know anything", with understanding.

The pale observer said...

Thanks Kelly - I was in a particularly jaded and skeptical mood when I saw the crowd at the airport this morning...

Sweetleaf, you said it perfectly - those of us who stay can definitely say we know nothing! with authority :)

A. Gillispie said...

Holli, girl, I love your writing. This is an excellent thought-provoking post. But I am also one of those chubby Americans who came to "Africa" and was forever changed. Really, I was. Sure, I come back to America and fall back into my processed food ways, but I don't fall as far as I did before. =-)

Most of those people who go to Africa on a mission trip with "suffer" through their 10 days, and then talk about it at tea as if the world was forever changed. But *some* of those folks do stay. Some of them come back over and over and over again. And maybe a tiny percentage can do something to help someone, despite themselves.
Anita

FullPlateMom said...

I love your writing Holli. But, I've got to agree with Anita above. Some of us come back over and over again until our mission is complete. I came, almost one year ago, to help a little boy at an orphanage that had been burned in an accident. I found my daughter in the process. I brought her home almost 4 months ago. Yet, I'll be back in Accra, standing at the airport where you mocked these people, in a little over a week. I'll be the ones with boxes full of supplies for the hospital room that I helped build at the orphanage where I first met this little boy and my daughter. I didn't come with a tour group that first time, I went by myself, knowing that I knew NOTHING. I still know NOTHING, except that I love these kids, and I want to see them have basic health care. When I'm done building the hospital at this orphanage, I'll move on to the next one. Mostly because I owe it to the country that gave me my daughter. Not every child needs to be adopted out of Ghana, so for every set of exceptionally lucky parents who get the privilege of parenting a Ghanaian child, there should be a lasting contribution made to help the ones who need to stay in Ghana to build a stronger country.

I may not be pudgy, but I'm extremely pale. I have no intention of going back to my Pilsbury cookie baking while letting these kids faces slip into my memory. It's impossible to do that when they've worked their way into your soul.
--Becky

Matthew said...

This is unforgettable. I will be back months from now searching to read this piece again.

Eliane Zimmermann said...

i promissed myself not to go to new blogs till the end of 2009 as my blog roll is full enough and i don't have time to loose and that i am busy enough leaving comments at my friend's blog and that our internet line is too slow for all of that - but i love your blog. thanks to julochka here i am again reading and reading instead of working... i am a german-brazilian grafic-designer and mom of two boys travelling around the german-language-countries talking/teaching and writing about aromatherapy. thank you and see you!

Ali said...

Great post! Your writing is so wonderfully descriptive!

Ali said...

Great post! Your writing is so wonderfully descriptive!

Turquoise Diaries said...

sad but true.. very powerful post..

The pale observer said...

Anita and Becky - I knew this post was going to offend some and indeed it has - I do apologise if you felt it was aimed somehow at you.

I was also one of those volunteers years ag - and I'm not saying that it's impossible to come to Africa, be sincere, make a difference, but the sad thing is that it has become trendy - more and more volunteers pour into Africa over the past few years. More and more, things stay the same...

The problems of Africa are African. The governments need massive rehaul and accountability to their people. It's not the job of a few well-meaning volunteers.

I have become cynical and this post is just a reflection of my thoughts during a boring layover in an iarport.

Again - my apologies if I made it sound like I believe every white foreigner is not doing something of value.

@Matthew - thank you sir. :)

@Eliane - wow, thanks! You are welcome to the ramblings. I appreciate you taking the time to use my humble writing to procrastinate from doing your work!!! I will visit you as well. Thanks again!

@Ali and Turquoise - Thanks very much!

A. Gillispie said...

Holli,

I really wasn't offended by your post. I think you made some very valid points! I have come to the point of believing that no amount of western aid is going to "fix" Africa in general, and Ghana in specific. So those of us who go back and forth, doing what we can, are left with making differences within an individual. Maybe, eventually, one of those Ghanaian individuals will make a lasting difference.

Keep writing. You make us think!
Anita

FullPlateMom said...

I wasn't offended either. Well, maybe a little. I mostly responded so that you would know that there are people out there who don't turn a blind eye to what they've seen. I could tell you had taken what you saw at the airport hard. And, being an eternal optimist, I wanted to lift your spirits a little. Maybe give you a little hope that we all haven't forgotten.

I know the government and Africa itself needs to to work it out too. So, I'm advocating, at the district level, for public health to do what it's supposed to and provide vaccines for all the kids at the orphanage. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't, but I'm out there trying because the kids all need vaccine. The politics that I've had to wade through have been intense, the system has been a little difficult to deal with. But, I've met people who wholeheartedly want to help their own country's children, and that's my ultimate goal, a Ghana that doesn't need me, or foreign aid, anymore. In the process, I want to see as much as I can and bring into my home the wonderful things about my daughter's homeland.

Keep writing,
--Becky

LMJ said...

I stopped complaining about my situation when I saw the famous picture of the starving African little girl, and the vulture behind her waiting, as she is dying. I cry everytime I see it.
It's horrible. I read that the photographer who took the picture, commited suicide out of guilt. He was there taking the picture and saw her; he could have helped her. I don't know.

I feel so fortunate and thank God for all my blessings. Hubby and I plan to go to Africa sometime in our lives.

Great blog.

TheChicGeek said...

Hi again, Hollie :)
It's okay to be skeptical and cynical at times. I believe those that do stay feel the frustration when they see those breezing in for "an experience" rather than a true heart. And I believe firmly like you and Sweatleaf voiced, "those who do stay can say we know nothing." How true.
Thank goodness for those that do stay...you guys are a true blessing and light to the world! Thank you for that.
Love to You, Hollie!
Kelly
**I just love your blog and your always thought-provoking posts...I had to come back for more...LOL
xxO :)

Anonymous said...

Amazing writing. Just found your blog, and will become a follower of it.

I'm a pudgy volunteer that comes to Africa 2 tinmes a year. Your description of the people described me to a T my first trip over. I left many tears on the African soil that trip. 12 trips later, I am yearning to relocate to Ghana and make a life helping. I agree with many of the comments, I wont change things alone, but maybe i'll be a part of helping.

keep writing.

mattbishop@hotmail.com

Sweetleaf said...

People always talk about helping "Africa" like it is one big entity. I personally know nothing about Africa, yet I have had many experiences in both Ghana and Togo. I keep returning because I am being helped. The people I have met there are helping, and challenging me. I have learned the value of focus, taking opportunities, and hard work. I have learned many things, but mainly I have learned to shut up and listen. I have learned how to learn.

Anonymous said...

You could not have articulated my thoughts any better about the do-good, feel-good Americans and European groups who visit Africa! Imagine a naive Kenyan college student who thinks with all the information available to Americans, she can actually have logical discussions with Americans about a country in Africa. For all her efforts, she cannot penetrate the deeply held American preconceptions about Africa to even convince a Geography major that Africa is a continent made up of different countries! To her new found American friends, Africa is just a dark, desolate place filled with naked children with huge eyes, distended bellies, runny noses and of course the obligatory flies! She quickly loses the crowds that followed her around campus in the her Mid-West college because she does not fit their stereotypes – I mean, it is no fun to call back home and say you have a bona fide African friend, but no, they have never lived in a hut or a tree and no, you did not have to teach them to use modern amenities like bathrooms and toothbrushes. Upon taking a couple of American friends to visit her family in Kenya (in their Safari Uniform that can only be found in America, Europe and in African shops catering to clueless tourists), said naïve Kenyan cannot understand their deep disappointment as they feel cheated out of a trip of a life time – I mean a modern capital city with 5 star hotels and resorts at the coast where the world’s rich and famous hide. I mean, I thought the largest slum in Africa is in Nairobi? Said naïve Kenyan has never been to the slums, so can’t really be a tour guide there and what is the tour there for again? There are already hundreds of NGOs operating in Kibera and other slums all duplicating each other’s efforts because the American and European ego says they alone know how best to do things and their NGO will finally be the one that will make the difference. So, skip the Kibera slums, maybe upon their return to America they can go to an inner city and take pictures or better yet, go to the UN Plaza in San Francisco and take pictures of the homeless as they bath and defecate in the sprinklers – now that should be life-changing (being in the richest country on earth and all).

Mwihaki - a bona fide African - who is still clueless about her one African Country (leave alone being an "expert" on all the other 52)!

Anonymous said...

Mwihaki,
Give me some more antics about taking Americans to Kenya.

Anonymous said...

Annon - taking American friends on trips to Kenya (a country in Africa) is one of my favorite things - just trying to do my small part in trying to dispel some of the myths. Of course that comes with lots of interesting stories – enough to fill a book! Like a very dear and well meaning in-law who wants to build an orphanage – and is now an expert after a month’s visit. Big question now is where to build the orphanage – the orphans she met are not quite deserving – she met them on a Sunday when they were wearing the Sunday best – granted they only have 2 changes of clothes – their one set of school uniform that they wear six days a week and the special outfit that they wear every Sunday. So the quest continues for the perfect village with children dressed in rags to build “her” orphanage. Any partners in Kenya? No, she is an American who knows best! Can she partner with existing orphanages to expand their operations? No, she knows exactly what she has in mind for “her” orphanage!

I can choose to be offended by American’s ignorance or see the humor in their ignorance. Now when Americans ask if we live in trees, I simply nod and say if they are ever in Nairobi, to look for the tallest tree as that is the American Ambassador’s residence. And, I am learning being exotic and different has its advantages! Can’t tell you how many offers of used electronics, clothes, shoes, and books my kind liberal friends have tried to shower upon me! The perplexed looks on their faces when I don’t take them up on their offers? Priceless! I mean, taking extremely well items from people living in million dollar homes in the richest country in the world don’t quite tickle the fancy of this naïve Kenyan gal who has never used anything second-hand in her life. They can’t quite figure this poor African out!

I had better stop the recollections – I am at work in the breakroom and it has taken me a couple of years here to change the stereotype of the jolly, ever-smiling African! They might think I still get tickled all these years later using a computor!

Mwihaki.

Sweetleaf said...

Thank you...I have experienced a similar softening of patience. Some of my best friends, whom I respect, don't understand basic concepts I repeat to them many times about my life in Ghana...or Togo.
It is hard to convince people in the US that other people don't want their crap. If it is crap to you, it is probably crap plain and simple.

A. Gillispie said...

In resonse to "Can’t tell you how many offers of used electronics, clothes, shoes, and books my kind liberal friends have tried to shower upon me!"...

Hmm... I'm a middle class American and would be glad and thankful to accept and use the used electronics, clothes, shoes, and books your friends are so kind to offer you. I never think twice at accepting such offers when offered to our family.

In trying to prove the predominant African stereotype incorrect (which it most certainly is!) you might want to consider what kind of picture you are painting for we Americans.

Sweetleaf, all those people that want to send you their "crap"...send them my way. We must not keep the same friends in Ghana. I have friends sharing 1 serving of Banku between 4 kids, one time a day. I've got friends sleeping on concrete floors with not even a mat. That's not all of Ghana but let's be real. That is PART of Ghana, just as the same sort of poverty is PART of America. I have friends who would be happy for your friends' hand-me-downs, just as I would gladly accept hand-me-downs for my own children here in America!

Anita

Melanie said...

I have seen what you have so poignantly described and it is indeed a conundrum. Unfortunately what you described is all too often the case.
After reading the comments (which I appreciated as much as your post!), I think the only thing that becomes clear is that though this may be true of many, if not most, of these mission teams heading out to "save" the world, it is not necessarily true of all. some good is accomplished and some lives are forever changed.

Anonymous said...

I too have brought containers full a second hand crap to Africa. I have shared it with friends and family. I try to select at least good crap.
The crux of the matter is everybody would prefer new things. Wouldn't you?
People here, in the US try to give the bottom of the barrel, smelly shoes, jeans with holes. That is what I'm talking about. Clothes, if well selected are different that electronics and other broken metal stuff.

Containers full of unwanted electronics pollute the poorest sections, like Sodom and Gomorrah and poison people as it burns in huge piles. Just because somebody takes your crap home, does mean that they will ever use it.

Cécile said...

Hi Holli, I did spend some time reading your blog yesterday. I found it insightful and thought-provoking. My visit to ghana was so so brief. I'm going to put some pictures on my website. I did put some on this page for one of our days in Accra. You are in Osu, right? We stayed near that area our first night-at the KNUST guesthouse.

Here's the page with pictures that I mentioned. http://ceciriehl.com/triptracks/Accra-Sat.html

I'll be back to read more of your blog. Thanks for stopping by and commenting on mine.

Take care,

Cecelia

Anonymous said...

Sorry Anita - but I am not sure which picture, that, I a stranger on the internet am painting for you, another stranger on the internet. Please enlighten! I had no idea that I am somehow the token African whose job it is to take away any American's consitutional right to stereotype? Do you also put upon yourself the same responsibility to think about picture you are painting about the white race or are you just patronizing me and your black children with this burden about the African stereotype? But I could be wrong and you know me? Have we met? Your suggestion is just as ridiculous as me asking Charles Manson to think about the picture he is painting about white Americans to the rest of the world!

You are most welcome to the crap that my rich liberal friends shower upon me - it is not exactly what you have in mind! If old, torn, dirty and smelly clothes, dirty shoes with gaping holes, twenty year old electronics that don't work tickle your fancy, please let me have your number and I will pass it along to my friends.

The offense is not in getting someone’s unwanted things – it is the fact that more often than not, my very wealthy friends try to give me the crappiest things and get surprised when I am not elated and don’t accept them. You really want to know where to get good quality used clothes for a mission trip? The less affluent communities. My friends who organize mission trips don’t even bother getting clothing donations from churches in the more affluent areas. They spend more time sorting the torn, dirty, smelly clothes and costs them a pretty penny taking most of the “donations” to the dumpsters. The best quality clothing donations for mission trips in my area actually come from inner city churches and churches where the members are lower middle classs. So, don’t fly off the handle on the hand me down issue –that was not my point at all. Rather it was the attitude of a very wealthy person, who could actually pass down something of quality thinking that simply because someone is from Africa, they should be jumping up and down because they got handed down clothes that had been in someone’s attic for 25 years.

Mwihaki.

A. Gillispie said...

Mwihaki,

Peace. You are right you don't know me. And you are right that I don't know you. I only have the picture you are painting of yourself with your comments. This was my point. When you say, "...this naïve Kenyan gal who has never used anything second-hand in her life. " it makes you sound very spoiled and "holier than thou." That's what I was responding to.

"I had no idea that I am somehow the token African whose job it is to take away any American's consitutional right to stereotype? Do you also put upon yourself the same responsibility to think about picture you are painting about the white race or are you just patronizing me and your black children with this burden about the African stereotype? "

I certainly don't see you as a "token African person" nor do I think it's your job to take away the African stereotype. You said in your first comment "For all her efforts, she cannot penetrate the deeply held American preconceptions about Africa ". From this most would assume that you have put some effort into combating the African stereotype.

The comment about my children was a cheap shot, and a rediculous statement. You obviously know nothing about me (even though you took the time to check out my blog and see pictures) if you think I condone the African stereotype. You haven't even read the comments in this conversation closely if you think that.

I hope one day you can meet an American that YOU won't stereotype. Until then, peace be with you.

Anita

Anonymous said...

Anita,

Obviously, you did not read my post explaining what my offense was in regards to the second hand clothes. Instead, you inserted yourself into a conversation that was not about you and insisted on taking offense about accepting hand me downs where no offense was meant! Sorry if I touched a sensitive spot – honestly, I did not know you before your comments (and yes, I do not know you after the comments, just as you do not know me). Per your assertion, I truly had no idea that the predominant African stereotype is of a very spoiled and holier than thou person. Curious if this is your opinion of everyone who does not wear second-hand clothes or just your opinion of one African who is financially blessed at this point in time to not have to wear second hand clothes? For the record, I do pass down my children’s gently used clothes to my friends – after I go through them making sure there are washed, have no rips or stains and after doing some introspection and asking myself I would accept the clothes if someone handed them down for my own children. I just have this weird hang-up that I should only pass down something that I would also accept from someone else.

I am surely learning a lot about myself – before today, I did not know that I had not never met an American I did not stereotype! That should prove interesting when I tell all my hapless American friends who still continue to befriend this American-stereotyping gal! Oh this world of political correctness? Can’t even speak tongue in check anymore before getting psycho-analyzed? Anyway, off to seek an American I will not stereotype and hopefully Anita, you will also meet an African who dares to comment on a blog that you will also not stereotype.

Until then, Shalom

Anissa said...

Wow. You have a way with words that is truly stunning. So powerful. I look forward to reading this again and again, as a reminder. Thank you.

Sweetleaf said...

Annita,
I surely do not move with a wealthy crowd.
We are all crammed into a compound house...yada, yada yada...
It was Ghana that turned me into the snobby capitalist I am today.
I am highly affected by my environment.
I would probably be more respected with the friends and family I shared my crap with if I had sold it all and threw a party.

My name is PJ. said...

It's said that you write best what it is you know best. You painted this post because you hold the experience in the very heart of you. Thank you for sharing it and leaving an indelible mark for this reader!

Lisa and Laura said...

This is just beautifully written. Thank you so much for sharing this. It's far too easy to forget the truly important stuff, isn't it?

Sylvia Dickey Smith said...

Beautifully written, and on target for so many. Your descriptive writing is haunting and sad. Makes me sad, knowing how close you hit the mark, and how difficult it is to incorporate such divergent world views into our own--and keep it there.
Thanks

The pale observer said...

Anita and Mwihaki - thanks ladies for engaging so deeply! Sorry if I started a heated debate - but I tru;y believe dialogue leads to understanding!! So thanks...

@Becky and LMJ - thanks also - yes, some people have the right motives and wherewithall to see things through... don't want to take that away from them...

@Sweetleaf - thnaks for your contributions - do you have a website?

@Cecile - I look forward to viewing your pics!!

@PJ, Lisa and Laura and Sylvia - thanks for visiting and contributing. Sorry you found me at my most jaded... you are always welcome :)

Debbie said...

What a beautifully written post. The differences between our lavish lifestyle and their poverty is almost too large to grasp.

The pale observer said...

Hi Debbie - even when you live here, it is too vast to comprehend. Those Africans who are rich, and the expats who live here as well - are living an even more luxurious lifestyle right next door to the poverty... it is absurd and unfathomable even as you live it!

Jungle Mom said...

Very well written.
Although not in Africa, but rather in South America, I have seen many naive people who think a few days make a difference. I have seen others who truly did make a difference. And I have seen messes left behind by well meaning people.
But do know that some of us (missionaries) come and stay. I've been here 25 years.
Most of the third world needs change but it does not need to be remade into the 'West'. Its unique and needs to solve its own problems but we can make a difference in the lives of some individuals.

Chris Scott said...

Bet when ya wrote this, you never expected to get such a response...Did you write it on the plane nursing an after dinner brandy?
Anyways I had much the same attitude to voluntourism. Now I look at things much more pragmatically. Ya,kids come with their trinkets, but they also bring money and often mummy and daddy come to visit and THEY spend money.
What does upset me is often the motive is to have an international component on their CV for admission to a school!

The pale observer said...

Hi Jungle Mom - thanks for your contribution - I would never want to take away your contribution through my jaded look at a few short term volunteers. I have no doubt you've done alot of good in 25 years for the people you've met.

Chrsi - I wrote this while sitting and watching the actual group, huddled together in the airport...

thanks for the comment!! :)

Matthew said...

If you do awards, there's one for you at my place.

If you don't, no worries. :)

Joshua said...

That was amazing. Vivid in its detail and a slap in the face to the way many people live. Extreme thanks to Matthew for pointing me over here. I shall return frequently.

-Joshua

Poindexter said...

Thought provoking. Thanks for the inspiration to examine our motivations, our sincerity and our gratitude. I applaud volunteers who are assisting human relief efforts regardless of where they live or where they are volunteering. Extending the hand of friendship is OK in my book.

Heather said...

moving and thought provoking. I had to read it twice and then sit and think some on it.

The pale observer said...

@Joshua - thanks for the comment. I'll come over and visit you too!

@Diane - you are right that reaching out to others needs to be commended. I just took a very jaded view in this particular instance, having seen so many similar situations. There are two sides to all of these things and the loving, open and commendable side is one I decided not to take in this article. :) BTW - i spent my first 3 years in Africa (Botswana and Ghana) as a volunteer.

@Heather - glad I made you ponder! Thanks for commenting.

Sister Beta said...

I love this post. I really, really love this post.

The pale observer said...

Thanks Sister Beta - tell me why - I would have thought it might offend? What are your experiences in this regard?

kristine said...

i know these people. or, well, no i dont. but i have seen them. they come here, too.

thanks for stopping by. i love the way your write!

deb said...

This is so so what needs to be said.
Thank you.

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