Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Fufu or bust - a culinary visit to Ghana

I’ve always liked food that is both exotic and fiery in the pepper department. This is either in spite of, or due to the fact that I grew up a middle class Anglo Canadian – typical supper fare was slightly overdone pork chops, apple sauce, potatoes and a vegetable. Salt, pepper and ketchup populated the world of spices I knew.

In highschool I met a whole new world in the form of Caribbean immigrants and the amazing foods they ate at home.

Oxtail stew, jerk chicken, goat roti – these quickly became my favourites. The hotter the better.

In 1997, years after my first introduction to the many flavours (and peppers) of the world, I came to Ghana. I knew that one of the most important aspects of acculturation for me would be the food. And I wasn’t disappointed.

Ghanaian food is culinary world in and of itself and it’s citizens hold it as dear as their flag and anthem. To be Ghanaian is to eat fufu, banku, kenkey.

And there is no shortage of pepper. The soups, the stews and even the sides of fresh pepper with everything – just the thought of it gets my temples sweating and my mouth watering.

Below, a sample of Ghana food at it’s best (next installment will be the stranger, more difficult to get used to dishes!):

Ghanaian dishes usually consist of a starch as the main component, with an accompaniment of soup or stew.

Banku is my favourite. It's literally a ball of maize that has been processed and fermented - giving it a vinegary taste like one of my other favourites, Ethiopian injera.

Here is a pot of banku being made.

Banku is eaten either with a okro soup (quite slimy and definitely not one of my favs), or with fish and raw hot peppers, ground with tomato and onion. CUTLERY IS NOT ALLOWED! This is a 'dig in with your hands' affair!

Arguably the best Ghanaian dish ever (in my mind) - is banku with tilapia fish. You get the whole fish - no fillets in Ghana! Again, it's all about sharing and eating with your hands. YUM!

Here's a bowl of fufu. This is Ghana's national dish. The fufu itself is made of boiled and pounded starches - either plantain and cassava or yam. There are three main soups that it can be submersed in - groundnut (yes, peanut soup!), light soup (a pepper and tomato broth) or palm nut soup (made from the pulp of palm kernels). There is a real art to eating fufu and most obrunis are hopeless at it. The object is to plunge your hand into the hot soup, pull of a bit size piece of the fufu, manipulate it to crate a little well where a bit of soup can sit, and plop the whole thing in your mouth and swallow. No chewing! Personally i can't do it. So in order not to gag at the table and cause concern and disgust in all around me, I abstain... The soups are great though. Peppery and flavourful...

Kenkey is the food of the Ga tribe - those along the coast, in the main city Accra. It is similar to banku, in that it's made of maize, but it has a grainier texture and is made and stored in either corn husks, or in banana leaves (fante kenkey). It's served with fish and pepper. Filling and simple and transportable. A practical and filling food.

Then there's red red. This dish is usually the favourite of the less adventurous visitors. It is not as spicy as the others and the tastes and textures are less 'foreign' to obrunis. Red red is named for the red of the beans in the bean stew, and the red of the fried plantains that accompany the stew. The sweetness of the plantain compliments the rich bean stew perfectly. This is a delicious dish that is definitely NOT for the diet conscious. If anyone bothered to calculate calories in Ghana, I'm sure this dish would be off the charts! It could easily take on a Super Size Big Mac meal!

This dish is called omo tuo - which literally translates as 'rice gun' - but no one can explain why... The white ball is rice that has been well cooked and then pounded into this shape, to be submerged in soup. It's Ghana's answer to dim sum or the north American brunch. On any given Sunday around the country, you can pop into the little designated canteens and feast on omo tuo. The ladies will have bowls of soups and different types of meat, fish etc., and you basically build your own.

Here is a feast of apem (unripe plantains, boiled) with palaver sauce (a stew made with crushed pumpkin seeds, kontomire which is in the spinach family, and of course hot pepper, tomato and onion). The amazing buttery avocados in Ghana make a great accompaniment. Hands only, the more the better to share... Yum!

Wachee is a staple food in Ghana. Sold at many roadside stalls, it is the fast food of the people. It is made of red beans cooked together with rice, giving it the characteristic brownish appearance. It's another build your own deal, where you can choose from macaroni, tomato stews, boiled eggs, fish, meat and gari (a powder made from dried cassava).

Ampesi and garden egg stew is basically boiled unripe plantains (which taste a bit like boiled potatoes) with a stew made from small local yellow eggplants/aubergines. Fish is usually the meat in this stew. I like to make it with canned tuna - no fish bones for me!!!

Abolo is another maize based food - much less dense than banku or kenkey. It is like a semi sweet fluffy pancake that's eaten with tiny tiny fishes - pictured here - which are called 'one man thousand'. The fishes are deep fried and taste like some sort of chips.

Here is a snack that is as moreish as you can get. Roadside sellers can be seen every evening, cooking up a batch. It's called kelewele and is basically chunks of sweet ripe plantain, rolled in a mixture of garlic, ginger and hot pepper, then deep fried to a dark crispy brown, while the inside stays soft and sweet. It can be eaten alone or with groundnuts (peanuts), or pictured here with the local ice cream, Fan Ice. Delicious.

Last but not least is the grill. Ghana is obsessed with kebabs. Most events serve or sell various grilled meats, and most famous is the kebab. Ghanaians have perfected a dusting powder for the meat, made of hot pepper powder, peanut powder and garlic and ginger, that coats and browns on the meat. It's great. The only problem for me is when the meat itself is cow skin or goat head... but that's another post! :)

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Yaw said...

When did "red red" become the name for that one dish? growing up, it was yɔ kɛ gari and zomi on top. Now, it's just stripped down (probably for westerners who can't chew gari?). You also forgot jollof rice. If anything, that's next after fufu as a main staple. And then there's the different kinds of shitɔ we eat.

Expat mum said...

So there are some things to eat that aren't hot? I love to try different foods but I have the digestive tract of a 90 year old! I'll be over in July so this post was great. I can at least SOUND like I know what's what!

Nana said...

A few things...

1. That pepper sauce looks HOT! I can just tell from the picture that its going to be a very dangerous thing to eat lol.

2. Where is the jollof????!!!!! ;)

3. I agree with the banku and tilapia statement.

4. I'm hungry

Anonymous said...

I miss the food of Ghana.

A. Gillispie said...

Loved this post Holli! Okay, so you're "allowed" to chew Banku? I thought you were supposed to swallow it like Fufu. I'm like you, can't handle the swallowing without chewing thing, even if there is good taste.

You got my favorites--Red Red and Waakye. Yum! Rice with stew and Talapia is right up there though.


Anonymous said...

Lol... Now I know why you are stuck with Ghana...the food is "killing you softly" Btw don't forget Yams (not the same as what North Americans eat on Thanksgiving) I mean "yeli", light soup with offal or guts! How about konkonte or "face the wall" with groundnut soup? Oh Tatale and aboboyie(bambara beans). Correction waakye is made from black eye peas and rice with a food die from some type of purple grass.
There is also TZ from the north and its mostly cooked from millet; its saved many peace corp hustlers up north. Its very light and not as heavy as banku. TZ goes with guinea hen soup (like wild cornish hen or pheasant). I am sure in your next write up you are going to talk about the grass-cutter guts and poop...uuuh! While you are at it talk about "a smile from the soup" "dankwan-sri"... I mean the 3lb bat delicacy. Don't forget the totally smoked kusie too. I don't want to spoil this for you but make mention of some of the breakfast offerings include Koose and Kooko or maasa, "eko agbeemi" yaka yeke etc. Then there is the lunch "lite" for hustlers...rosted plantain and peanuts.
Good work Holli...lol

Miss Footloose | Life in the Expat Lane said...

What a great post, Holli, with all those fabulous photos! Takes me back. I grew up with the same sort of diet in Holland as you did in Canada, even minus the ketchup ;).

Now, of course, having lived in Ghana and Indonesia, I love spicy food.

krissy said...

my favourite was fish and kenkey, the fante kind, with pepper -- lots of onion and tomato. sometimes I would just have it with canned fish. my mouth is watering now...

MS said...

Oh wow! This post REALLY made me miss Ghana! I think I may have to make some groudnut stew tonight!

SunTura said...


The pale observer said...

Alex! I think you should write the next post! It can be a guest post on all the Ghanaian foods Holli missed! I remember the eko agbeemi seller shouting that so many mornings from the roadside!!!

MBS, Krissy and Wendela - it ssems everyone misses Ghanaian food! I wonder if I will when my time comes... definitely will miss the tilapia and banku!

Anonymous said...

Hi Holli, no one does it better than you. I will pass on being a guest on your blog for now even though I feel its a coveted opportunity. When I do, it will not be about food ok? Hey, how about having dinner... a Ghanaian dinner on my next visit to Ghana. In lieu of being a guest how about me suggesting a topic for your future installment. I will suggest "Holli's take on western influence on the Ghanaian culture" Have you already done that?
Btw I love your blog!

Arnold said...

Hi Hollie, My other Facebook Page was deleted and I am now on https://www.facebook.com/guinness.mangh. I have some more pictures there

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Obibini Bruni said...

Those are only two ways to eat banku. Banku can be eaten with any stew or any soup, basically as you please.
Waakye gets its colour from sorghum leaves, not the beans ;)
Abolo is actually Togolese
I have never seen anyone eat kelewele with ice cream hahaha that is a new one!
Most foods in Ghana are “build your own”, as you put it. You just have to go to street food sellers or chops bars, rather than fancy restaurants, and you build in accordance to what they have.

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